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Post by johnjones on Nov 7, 2021 19:56:42 GMT
In stermat, a local hardware shop, a good one, in the threaded rod part, they have threaded couplers to join lengths of rod together etc.
One of those and some threaded rod with prepared ends can be made the right length and used to "measure by feel" the diameter, then measured by Mike...
Failing that, a good vernier with a clock ?
I have a digital Vernier, zero it, measure, push home and it's not zero, a chocolate tea pot. C/case and ladder casting didn't survive flywheel removal, sounds horrific..
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Post by buster on Nov 7, 2021 20:36:20 GMT
yep exactly why I went back to 'proper' dial type verniers, simple to read (and held very carefully can give an indication of run out on things like crank pins). I'll have another look next weekend with hopefully a couple of fresh lots of shells (one new, one secondhand) and see if I'm back on track
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Post by johnfcbn44dx on Nov 8, 2021 20:03:42 GMT
Your item (shells) is due to leave Edinburgh MC,
Monday 08 November 2021
19:31 Item Despatched to Royal Mail site...
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Post by buster on Nov 8, 2021 20:32:59 GMT
Your item (shells) is due to leave Edinburgh MC, Monday 08 November 2021 19:31 Item Despatched to Royal Mail site... thanks john, much appreciated, as I said if theres any bits I might have that your after just give me a shout |
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Post by buster on Nov 9, 2021 17:23:13 GMT
this must be the most careful I'v ever been opening a parcel (I was rather taken with the honda sticker and didnt want to destroy it) thanks John, I'll measure them up and have a tinker this weekend  |
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Post by buster on Nov 13, 2021 10:59:53 GMT
so saturday morning and time for some test fitting. dry build with NOS blue shells in the mag wheel side and a piece of plastigage and it looks good, its on the tight side but it is within honda's measurements. so scratch head, reach down to groin area and scratch brains, scratch head again and more dry builds than I care to bore you with (with shells, without shells, with crank etc) and much measuring I'v decided I can get away with blues. if it seizes 5 miles down the road I'v only got myself to blame but I honestly think it will be fine. so just waiting on the big end shells arriving now   |
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Post by johnfcbn44dx on Nov 13, 2021 13:57:54 GMT
What assembly lub/oil do you use? i was thinking (when I get round to it) just to use 10W/60 or is it worth getting some ZX1 or the like?
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Post by buster on Nov 13, 2021 15:29:23 GMT
What assembly lub/oil do you use? i was thinking (when I get round to it) just to use 10W/60 or is it worth getting some ZX1 or the like? I just use any reasonable quality 10w40 with a drop of this lucas gloop in it, the only exception is the clutch, that just gets the oil  |
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Post by buster on Nov 21, 2021 14:21:04 GMT
a little job that I'd almost forgotten to do (unknown secondhand casing) is run an m10x1.25 tap down each of the cylinder stud holes all good apart from the one circled in blue which had a helicoil in it  , some people really shouldnt be let loose on engines. still not to worry it seems pretty straight so a timesert to the rescue and all should be sorted  also worth mentioning that I run a bottoming tap into the two centre front holes, just to ensure that the thread is properly clean and good  |
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Post by buster on Dec 11, 2021 15:44:30 GMT
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Post by buster on Jan 2, 2022 16:52:47 GMT
so onto the build up. at this point I'v done a mini build on the crank (made sure all the shells are good, then cleaned and oiled) and a similar story with the gear clusters, I dont strip the gears down unless theres an obvious problem (chipped cog, knackered bearing etc) I just clean them and make sure the oilways are clear. case with shells in prepped and ready  ditto the crank  |
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Post by buster on Jan 2, 2022 17:17:29 GMT
normally I dont take the selector mechanism out (unless theres an obvious problem), I just fill it up with petrol for an hour then give it a good degrease but this one had to be fitted. easy enough to do, I leave the star shaped doofer on the drum (haynes make life difficult by taking it off) then fit the single selector fork (sits in the centre groove of the drum) by locating its dowel on the drum and sliding the spindle in. same thing applies with the twin forks on the other shaft but make sure they go in the right place as they are ever so slightly different.  then retaining plate can go on, I just fit the screws with loctite and use an impact driver to give them a good firm nip up  have a good look at the bush on this control arm and its fairly obvious how it works but if you fit it this way I'd give it a push with your finger when tight to ensure it can move freely  I fit the layshaft first (single selector fork) making sure the roller bearing seats on its oil feed dowel, then fit the output shaft (can take a bit of jiggling/small rotation to get it in) and again rotate the small bearing till it seats on its dowel, also be careful to ensure the thin seal seats in its groove  and spot the mistake in this pic  |
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Post by buster on Jan 3, 2022 15:59:26 GMT
so crank laid in and then comes the juggling act. I fit the slipper guide into the bridge piece with the forward bolt only and do it up finger tight. then fit the balance weight and chain into the bridge (note the cut out in the spindle to accommodate the ear trumpet bolt). then let the cursing begin, theres a small groove in the crank web that should be level with the crankcase joint, so firstly align that, then roughly align the balance weight into position and holding the chain forward gently ease the bridge down into position and see if your marks are aligned. if not ease the bridge up by about 5mm and you should have just enough to roll the balance weight using the chain, be careful not to move the crank out of position or there tends to be more swearing.   then when these two are in their proper position I fit a couple of the six main bolts, again finger tight, just so I cant lose the position. then offer the front balance weight up to the chain and lower into position for a look, you can then adjust it back and forth a link at a time until your happy to slide the adjuster shaft in through it.  then I just roll the shaft (eccentric adjustment) about a bit to see roughly where it should be, you can see the chain tensioning quite easily, so I move it towards tension and then fit the spring and put the adjuster plate on its splines. then try pushing the adjuster against the spring and see if the spring will set the tension, if theres no tension I remove the tang from the end of the shaft and put another half turn on it. when the adjuster is set correctly it should adjust itself without hitting the stud. |
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Post by buster on Jan 3, 2022 16:29:21 GMT
then onto the easy bit, drop the four remaining big bolts into the bridge (I give the threads an oil but with a very dry brush, just a film) and torque it down, I get a bit precious about this as I'm trying my best to replicate the production line tool (I'd imagine they had a beastie that put all six bolts in and torqued them down at the same time, it probably also had magnetic sockets hence the flanged bolt heads) so I tighten in three stages 15 ft/lb then 20 and finally 27. I like the torque wrench to break out while I'm slowly moving it, that way I'm sure its as even as I can get it. then you can fit the ear trumpet (new o ring) might have the twiddle the rear balance weight shaft round with a flat blade screwdriver and the m6 front bolt and torque those up.  then time for more fun and games with the kickstart shaft. first remove the e clip, thrust washer and pinion and put to one side. then noting the order take the rest of the gubbins off. fit the bare shaft into its orifice through the pinion first and then the thrust washer then slide the shaft fully home and secure with the e clip.   and now its ready to join the crankcase halves, I use a thin smear (applied the builders way ie finger tip) of good quality sealant (wurth)  then torque that down and final job for today fit the gear selector shaft, take care to seat the spring correctly over the aluminium casting, prongs either side of that dowel. then by pushing and pulling I can check the gears all select.  |
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Post by buster on Oct 29, 2023 15:38:57 GMT
this engine has fought me every step of the way and its got to the point where I'v simply had enough. if I email sellers on ebay they either dont respond or they cant read the numbers on the rods.
the upshot of this is it gives me a superdream six speed box and I think the best place for that is the 450 engine...
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, some people really shouldnt be let loose on engines. still not to worry it seems pretty straight so a timesert to the rescue and all should be sorted
. so £50 on ebay got me another casing, bridge, shells and balance weights. the only fly in the ointment was the snapped stud. the way I'v got these out successfully is by running a bit of m8 thread down the remaining stud, then screwing an m8 nut on and then weld the thing in place, problem is its pretty hard on your dies and I couldnt get the thread to start (must replace that die). so plan B there was quite a lot of m10 thread showing at the bottom so wound a suitable nut on, cleaned up with a wire brush and weld in place, then carefully grind the welds so I can get a socket on
, so timesert to the rescue and should be good as new 
