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Post by CTB on Mar 26, 2022 20:04:37 GMT
Love it, great work š
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Post by buster on Mar 27, 2022 16:28:31 GMT
I dont mind painting but I loathe the preparation , still it has to be done. the abrasive brush can be worked between the fins (couple of quid from toolstation) but it wont reach right down hence the tool on the dremel for getting all the alloy corrosion out rocker cover prepped barrels allegedly masked and rocker cover masked, great tip for masking up, get someone else to do it
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Post by buster on Apr 3, 2022 15:08:26 GMT
so freshened the paint up a bit, quite pleased with the rocker cover detail (masking isnt my strong point), one problem did show up however, the cylinder head rocks slightly when sat on top of the barrels. something therefore needs skimming, cylinder head is the most likely suspect but I'll check. oh well better to find it now than after everythings built up again
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Post by buster on Oct 29, 2023 15:54:34 GMT
this has been languishing half built in the garage for way too long, so time for a bit of a rethink. I was never 100% happy with the gearbox, I'v never come across any chipped gears on the japanese gears but the brazilian ones just dont seem to be of the same quality. with that in mind I'v switched it over to a superdream six speed from the now abandoned 250 engine build. engine back apart and six speed SD gears fitted then the fiddly bit, I fit the rear balance weight, the chain and the slipper guide (both bolts finger tight only) and then with the crank web mark aligned I carefully fit the bridge piece until the balance weight is in the correct position. once I'm happy that its in position I then fit the front weight and slide its shaft through, usually takes a couple of goes to get everything aligned and in the correct positions. once I'm happy with that I fit the adjuster spring and drop on the adjuster at the other end and then check its self adjusting by pulling it against the spring, if it doesnt self adjust I put another half a turn of tension on the spring and try it again. once its working as it should it can then be set and the nuts and washers tightened up. and with everything nicely torqued up thats enough for today, lower casing is dropped on loosely just to stop muck and dust getting in there
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Post by buster on Nov 6, 2023 6:46:36 GMT
sump on next job is fir the gear selector shaft and check that all the gears select then the fiddly bit, fitting the pistons and rings and thats about it for today (had to go pick a haul of bike bits up)
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Post by duffer on Nov 6, 2023 11:07:26 GMT
What ? Ring compressors AND decent bars to support the pistons? Damn. So this us how it should be done ! Excellent as always š
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Post by buster on Nov 18, 2023 14:23:20 GMT
time to resurrect an old cylinder head. there wasn't a single valve in this that I didn't have to hammer out, oddly though it seems to be quite low mileage (valves really easy to clean) and just badly stored. so I cleaned the guides up a while back and gave them a toot of wd40 and they all seem ok. the seats didn't take much recovering with this tool it requires a bit of care in how you use it but its great for cutting down on valve grinding time then on to the two flies in the ointment, a bent inlet and a bent exhaust valve, so I'm guessing that was why this head was abandoned in the first place. nothing to worry about though, I'v got a 450 nighthawk head that I can raid for parts
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Post by buster on Nov 26, 2023 15:23:06 GMT
I was going to paint this cylinder head but after a deep clean between the fins its come up really nicely, the only detail that needed to be done was the silver edging on the cooling fins. so out with an old knackered file (hardly any bite left) and thats given a pretty clean finish, three more to go in this pic I get a bit obsessive about cylinder heads, when I strip them each valve and its components go into separate labelled bags, the valves then get ground to their respective seats, wiped clean and returned to the bag. when it comes to re-assembly I degrease each valve and its components one at a time so I dont mix parts up. top tip (copyright Viz) if your cleaning the bits in a sink put the plug in the hole until after you've rinsed the collets off, hunting for collets in the U bend is only funny for bystanders. another top tip with these heads, fit the spring seat before the guide stem seal next important bit, theres a right way up and a wrong way up for the springs, tighter coils go at the bottom getting the collets in is a knack, compress the spring too far and it makes it harder, not enough and they wont go in. there is a sweet spot but its tricky to find and the finished head I know I'v probably said this before but there are probably more hours spent doing the head than the rest of the engine combined
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Post by buster on Dec 3, 2023 14:30:57 GMT
so on with the cylinder head and but first in with the cam chain tensioner and guide. its actually backed right off in this pic, pulled up and lower dome nut nipped up, but for some reason it wouldn't let the head sit down properly. so I dropped the head on and then backed the cam chain tensioner off by gently prising it with a socket extension bar and again nipped up the bottom nut. the next bit is fiddly (and hard to photograph as your doing it) I turn the engine so I'm looking at the stator side, then I offer the cam sprocket to the tunnel with the chain held in my fingers behind it. this should allow you to fit the cam shaft through the sprocket, when the cam is seated you can then get the engine to TDC using your fingers as a sprocket, then patience, karma, swearing whatever works for you to get the sprocket lines to align with the head at TDC. then comes the joyous job of getting the new cam chain onto the shaft , I fit the right hand rocker gear and the four bolts and gently nip them down, the sprocket should then ease on, double check the lines against TDC and the notch in the end should be either up or down. if all is good then I'll torque the bolts home on the sprocket. I'll then back those four bolts off again and fit the left hand rocker gear, then I torque it down in three goes, roughly 15 lb/ft then 20 lb/ft and finally 24 lb/ft one or two jobs still to do, external oil feed to fit (when I find it) tappets to set and cam chain to tension. then its onto cosmetic stuff in sorting out some covers for it
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Post by duffer on Dec 3, 2023 15:51:03 GMT
Is that in your kitchen ? š¤£
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Post by buster on Dec 3, 2023 18:49:13 GMT
Is that in your kitchen ? š¤£ yep far too cold and miserable to work outside
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Post by buster on Dec 9, 2023 10:09:32 GMT
the nice thing about working in the kitchen is handy access to the parts cleaner
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Post by BritPete on Dec 9, 2023 11:10:39 GMT
If I did that I would have 2 less bits
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Post by buster on Dec 9, 2023 13:25:13 GMT
casings roughed out with scotchbrite mops and details painted (daubed) in. a final clean up with 600 grit wet and dry should remove any excess paint and the paint will hopefully be hard enough then to cope with the final polish
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Post by buster on Mar 3, 2024 11:17:46 GMT
so came to set the tappets and hit a snag, the engine would only turn over so far, I'd guess I had about 270 degrees of movement. head scratching time. I couldnt see anything wrong inside with a torch but there was no way I was going to force the engine to turn over, so back apart and investigate. it turns out the (presumably brazilian made) front balance shaft has more eccentricity ie a bigger lobe than the japanese ones, very careful setting and adjustment got the engine turning over nicely. the thing is though I'v never had this problem with a japanese engine, so brazilian shaft out and japanese one in. that should cure it.
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