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Post by andy1kenobe on Dec 17, 2020 15:06:46 GMT
On tenterhooks here now. Hope it's OK.
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Post by comstar on Dec 17, 2020 16:36:40 GMT
Full update later will have more time but basically I must have had a stuck float or float valve not seating..
Noticed petrol p•ssing out of the air box last night. Petrol also in the cylinders.
Grrrrr. More time to investigate today.
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Post by CTB on Dec 17, 2020 22:25:19 GMT
Fingers crossed for you Nick, but I’m sure all will be well.
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Post by comstar on Dec 18, 2020 2:58:25 GMT
What a day, I am BUSHED. I think it's sorted but here are some pix from the day. Still have to now change the engine oil and filter as petrol may have also got into that too (I was going to change it anyway). Just like we can on the SD's, I managed to drop the bowls off today without removing the carbs by using the right tools. After I did the job and replaced parts, all still did not seem well with pertol continuing to infringe the airbox at quite an alarming rate. But now, after a bit more jiggery pokery (three hours dicking around) the overflowing now seems to be sorted - will know for sure tomorrow. It's a good job I have a spare set of these carbs and indeed another model of the same bike here so that I could troubleshoot the fuel system and check 'normal behaviours' from a good running bike. Re: Hydrolock. My hope is that the engine would be forced to stall before it happened in this case which it did on a few occasions. It was not exactly under load so hopefully I have got away with any of that kind future issue (see below) ....we will see. Reading posts like this on the internet can obviously worry one though but of course decent advice: WARNING: IF there's liquid fuel in a cylinder, cranking the engine will cause a hydraulic lock and damage the connecting rod. This will cause the engine to violently self-destruct later. If you suspect liquid fuel in a cylinder, remove the spark plugs and crank the engine to clear it. Fuel can spray out of the plug bore, so carefully consider the possibility of fire.
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Post by comstar on Dec 18, 2020 3:03:50 GMT
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Post by comstar on Dec 18, 2020 5:44:49 GMT
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Post by comstar on Dec 18, 2020 6:01:40 GMT
Not giving up......I can crack this.
If not I am done....forever.
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Post by buster on Dec 18, 2020 6:50:13 GMT
is it a slow seepage nick? have you checked the needle heights? fingers crossed the engines ok. I'd hazard a guess that the rod you put a pic up of was perhaps out of a diesel that got water in the air intake at quite high revs (hit a flood at speed maybe) I wouldnt think that sort of damage would occur on a cold engine turned over on the button.
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Post by comstar on Dec 18, 2020 17:24:32 GMT
is it a slow seepage nick? have you checked the needle heights? fingers crossed the engines ok. I'd hazard a guess that the rod you put a pic up of was perhaps out of a diesel that got water in the air intake at quite high revs (hit a flood at speed maybe) I wouldnt think that sort of damage would occur on a cold engine turned over on the button. Absolutely mate, that was an image off of the same place I got the definition from, Wiki I think? I have peeled the airbox rubbers back and can see that the fuel starts to over flow on the LHS. The float heights are factory set, much like the later SD'S. I have also used my spare floats and still the same. Surely it has to be some dirt still up in the needle seat? I have cleaned them with cotton buds yesterday but maybe I need to go and get a carb cleaner to spray on the cotton bud, something harsher than petrol. I've even tried two needles.
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Post by buster on Dec 18, 2020 17:35:32 GMT
I know what you mean, my old 400/4 had a similar issue on one of the inner carbs, eventually I found the tiniest piece of what appeared to be some sort of clear plastic, it was a magnifying glass job to find it
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Post by CTB on Dec 18, 2020 17:45:38 GMT
Are these the carbs you have just had rebuilt with new parts?
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Post by comstar on Dec 18, 2020 21:15:32 GMT
Are these the carbs you have just had rebuilt with new parts? Yes. And the float valves are new. The chap is really good, he has done three sets of various carbs now but never had this issue. Just got back home and going to head out there for more. Apparantly the float heights may actually be adjustable according to something I have found on the interweb.
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Post by comstar on Dec 18, 2020 21:59:24 GMT
My sincere apologoes Buster, I have lied to you.....these floats do actually have a height adjustment.
I hope this is my problem, back out there with fire in the belly.
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Post by Graham on Dec 18, 2020 23:14:58 GMT
Yes you're right Nick. I've a pdf copy of the Triumph workshop manual for the T100 which states that the float height can be adjusted by carefully bending the float tang. PM me if you haven't already got a copy. Graham
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Post by comstar on Dec 19, 2020 4:10:50 GMT
Thanks Graham yeah, this was a schoolboy error on my part to dismiss these floats as non adjustable to Buster earlier. I even saw in the Triumph workshop manual a paragraph on adjusting them a few days back, but I ignored that because I thought it was not relevant to what I have here. Reason being, these are adjusted differently to what you would on an early SD and they simply look the same as the non adjustable SD type....and I just assumed they were factory set (tang is totally a different type). As the saying goes, never assume.
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