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Post by buster on Jul 24, 2022 13:23:35 GMT
new toy I'm dying to have a play around but at the moment I'm convinced the pilot circuit in the carbs is still not right (more on that in another thread) I also reckon I'm going to need this for setting the german cdi's advance curve. cant wait for the head scratching/cursing to begin
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Post by duffer on Jul 24, 2022 14:21:57 GMT
How do you...what does that.. where do you even..?? Oh bollocks. I'm going to go a paint something. Hat's off to you Buster. Waaayyy above my pay grade....
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Post by BritPete on Jul 24, 2022 17:14:09 GMT
I’m lost at post 2 - that’s probably why I’m a “keep it original man”
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Post by buster on Jul 24, 2022 17:49:23 GMT
I’m lost at post 2 - that’s probably why I’m a “keep it original man” I must confess this thread has gone off on a tangent a bit. but to put it in a nutshell an ignitech (or the german) dc cdi can be used to avoid the very expensive stator rewind on a 400/450 three valve engine. I totally understand the 'keep it original' I just had to know if newer technology could be applied retrospectively. when I ever get back to the 400 kicker resto (after I'v repaired the borehole, plumbed in a pressurised hot water cylinder ((with balanced cold feeds to the mixer taps, plumbers take note please)) and done all the other things I'm getting nagged for, christ I'm not even married!) I'll keep that on an original (ish, might be a later 450 stator) set up
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Post by johnfcbn44dx on Jul 24, 2022 21:59:44 GMT
It seems this solution would be more reliable, and re-assuring fall back option into the future.
Just checking the recently assembled Ryzen Gen3 PC, I thought it still had a serial socket, but no, but it does have a header on the Motherboard though...another cable to add perhaps (c/w 12v supply). have a Win 7 netbook for on-bike .potential.
The bit that could be beyond me so far, is that taper adapter you made .
My 400/4 had it's points replaced with an optically triggered ignition, as I was setting the points every 600 miles.
Will be interested to see how the new toy works...
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Post by buster on Jul 25, 2022 7:43:19 GMT
I actually gave up to the taper adapter, it was really a complication too far, so its running with 450sg windings to charge the battery and a standard SD hitachi magneto wheel
interesting about the 400/4, you say its an optical sensor? both these cdi systems will apparently run very well on a HALL sensor (simpler than they sound) problem is theres nowhere that I can think of to mount one on an SD engine as they need to be kept away from strong magnetic fields
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Post by buster on Jul 26, 2022 10:56:27 GMT
the german kit. this was cheaper, easier to order (just use paypal on their site) and arrived very quickly (teutonic efficiency shame they cant apply it to their ICE trains) some nice features on this, its programmable off the bike (takes its power from the laptop) its also capable of running 2 separate ignition curves that can be switched between using the little jumper connection in the pictures. so you can, in theory, run one curve for crappy E10 fuel and another curve for crappy E5 fuel.
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Post by BritPete on Jul 26, 2022 16:35:23 GMT
new toy I'm dying to have a play around but at the moment I'm convinced the pilot circuit in the carbs is still not right (more on that in another thread) I also reckon I'm going to need this for setting the german cdi's advance curve. cant wait for the head scratching/cursing to begin This is my early 80’s equivalent but plugs into mains Not been used for 30 years or so
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Post by BritPete on Jul 26, 2022 16:36:19 GMT
Do you remember the days when you had to put your own plug on everything you bought?
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Post by buster on Jul 26, 2022 18:09:12 GMT
yep that timing light looks like the business, mines just a bit updated , you can alter the flash by adjusting its advance/retard settings to see what would work best, also reads rpm which is handy.
was sick of the sight of changing plugs after my mother moved back from germany, muggins got the job of chopping the euro ones off and fitting english plugs on all her appliances
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Post by buster on Jul 29, 2022 11:17:01 GMT
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Post by buster on Aug 21, 2022 16:31:41 GMT
the nx250 pickup sadly isnt a straight forward fit, it might work if I slot the ends but I was hoping to keep this conversion as simple as possible. so the bike currently is running a cb450sg outer pickup, a cb450sg alternator (charges the battery, nothing else) and a cb400n mag wheel this set up is paired with the ignitech cdi. finally found a bit of time to play with the timing light and now I'm even more bloody stumped, the timing marks (according to the light) are absolutely miles off and because you can put theoretical advance/retard in with the light you can make adjustments. problem is though I still cant get the marks where they should be and now I dont know if I trust the light. more thinking needs to be thunk about , also probably have to do the worlds most un manly thing and read the timing light instructions
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Post by buster on Aug 21, 2022 16:57:52 GMT
another thought has just occurred, does the pickup need an elongated trigger? this is the 450sg mag wheel
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Post by duffer on Aug 21, 2022 18:04:35 GMT
Buster. If you can figure this out and make it work you may consider yourself promoted. Mr Scott can bugger off, you are the new chief engineer of the star ship Enterprise ! Beam me up !
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Post by buster on Aug 23, 2022 15:16:54 GMT
so more fiddling with the base advance, I'v tried from one extreme to the other and I'm not really getting anywhere. I'm becoming more convinced that the pulse signal is too brief, so with that in mind I had a go at fitting the 450sg mag wheel with my adapter, sadly it didnt work. next idea is to grind off the pip on the 400 mag wheel and braze on a suitable bit of metal. out with the engineers square (took me 20 minutes to find it) I then went hunting in my scrap piles for a bit of 2.5mm thick steel, I must have every other gauge of steel known to man except 2.5mm so onto ebay and wait
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