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Post by BritPete on Oct 19, 2022 15:48:45 GMT
I have spent this afternoon researching removing the cylinder head from the block
SME has an oil leak I think it is above the oil pressure switch between the block and the barrels however I have noticed there is a leak around the rocker box
I intend to (but happy to be challenged) change the rocker seal and verify it’s not oil draining down but I’m sure it’s not
My plan would be to try and remove the barrel with the engine still in the bike, the horrors I have seen where the barrels will not come away from the block worries me
What should the strategy be - ideas please
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Post by growntree on Oct 19, 2022 16:21:37 GMT
I have spent this afternoon researching removing the cylinder head from the block SME has an oil leak I think it is above the oil pressure switch between the block and the barrels however I have noticed there is a leak around the rocker box I intend to (but happy to be challenged) change the rocker seal and verify it’s not oil draining down but I’m sure it’s not My plan would be to try and remove the barrel with the engine still in the bike, the horrors I have seen where the barrels will not come away from the block worries me What should the strategy be - ideas please It is perfectly possible to remove the barrel while it is on the bike. You'll need to take the fuel tank off as the holes through the frame you need to pull the head bolts through will then be accessible. I found one of the cam chain guides to be a pain to get out though. Also the cam chain tensioner is attached to the head and the barrels, so you'll need to undo it to be able to separate the two. You'll also need an extra pair of hands to look after the cam chain so it doesn't drop into the engine while you're trying to remove the head or the barrel. I found that separating the head from the barrel, then supporting it on a couple of bits of wood allowed me to get a large screwdriver between the two bits of chain so when the chain is dropped down the hole to get the head off, the screwdriver catches the chain. Ditto when removing the barrel. I found the large screwdriver was useful for getting the barrel off as well. Don't lean on it, more of a nudge nudge nudge. I found it was the front that seemed to stick more than the back even when I'd taken it off and put it back on the day before. The oil pressure switch needs a 27mm spanner to undo and is behind the clutch cover. It would be worth cleaning the engine and replacing the rocker seal first though as that's a much easier option unless you're curious and want to take it apart anyway. |
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Post by growntree on Oct 19, 2022 16:31:29 GMT
Just as a side note, if you need any pictures of bits of the top end so you know what bits need undoing, mine is still in bits until the weekend when I get some more tools from machine mart, so will be happy to upload any that are required.
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Post by buster on Oct 19, 2022 17:53:33 GMT
as growntree's said its perfectly possible with the engine in the frame, the cylinder bolts can be the bit to be worried about, the centre ones can be a pain in the hole. they seem to corrode down the thread and it compacts and jams as you undo them and then they snap (done that twice now, learning at my usual rate).
the heads and barrels can feel pretty well jammed on, dont be tempted to prise anything, I just tap away with a rubber mallet and eventually they will come. it can start to feel like this is never going to budge (perfectly normal) and the temptation is to tap it harder but please dont. it can take the patience of a saint but its better than breaking a fin
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Post by johnjones on Oct 19, 2022 19:14:35 GMT
The exploded views etc. on CMSNL are extremely usefull showing stuff like we're the dowels are etc. etc. etc. etc.....
use them...
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Post by johnfcbn44dx on Oct 19, 2022 20:06:21 GMT
The top end overhaul article in the manual section suggests that with the pistons bdc, wooden blocks in the top of the barrels, and tap back and forth...
Maybe need a wood lathe to turn an inch of the block circular bore size ideally?
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Post by johnjones on Oct 19, 2022 22:03:27 GMT
It would also be good to know where the dowels are, if any.
CMSNL will show this.
Also an oe green base gasket has heat activated glue on the rear outer head bolt area, where the oilway are to the cam area.
For your info the dowels are in the rear outer head bolt holes, clearly seen in the extremely informative CMSNL exploded views...free info...
The good fitting wood "strike inserts" is a technique which I have had to use over the many years of working on these and other bikes.
Steady as you go...
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