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CDIs
Feb 5, 2024 8:55:25 GMT
Post by Rossco on Feb 5, 2024 8:55:25 GMT
Am I missing something?
If a CDI is a small number of standard components, why aren't we all building our own when they fail? Or at least pulling out the silicone to replace the cap if that's what fails more often than not?
..does anyone happen to have a schematic for the Hitachi?
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CDIs
Feb 5, 2024 9:51:42 GMT
Post by BritPete on Feb 5, 2024 9:51:42 GMT
Am I missing something? If a CDI is a small number of standard components, why aren't we all building our own when they fail? Or at least pulling out the silicone to replace the cap if that's what fails more often than not? ..does anyone happen to have a schematic for the Hitachi? I tried to pull one to bits - you cannot realistically get the silicone off the internals - it is 40 years old and as hard as a brick Buster is the expert in this field - he (I think) has a programmable CDI on his Hondamatic conversion
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CDIs
Feb 5, 2024 12:28:26 GMT
Post by buster on Feb 5, 2024 12:28:26 GMT
yep Peter's right in all respects, I've tried (and failed) to look inside a standard CDI
often its the stator that blows the CDI (rex's speedshop recomend sending both items in for testing before fitting a new CDI)
these are the main reasons why I decided to try and work out a conversion that didnt rely on obsolete parts
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Post by Rossco on Feb 6, 2024 1:23:52 GMT
I've seen success with soaking CDIs in a suitable solvent to remove the pot leaving the circuit exposed. Noone's tried this? I don't want to be the first to try it on my Hitachi! (Unless it's proven busted -- heading over to my other thread to get opinions on this)
I've followed along on your conversion thread Buster and loved every second. Nerdgasm.
In retrospect would you recommend that approach to others? Also I was under the impression the Hall Sensor wasn't necessary with the ignitech if you have a working pulse ie. plug-and-play?
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CDIs
Feb 6, 2024 5:28:12 GMT
Post by BritPete on Feb 6, 2024 5:28:12 GMT
I've seen success with soaking CDIs in a suitable solvent to remove the pot leaving the circuit exposed. Noone's tried this? I don't want to be the first to try it on my Hitachi! (Unless it's proven busted -- heading over to my other thread to get opinions on this) I've followed along on your conversion thread Buster and loved every second. Nerdgasm. In retrospect would you recommend that approach to others? Also I was under the impression the Hall Sensor wasn't necessary with the ignitech if you have a working pulse ie. plug-and-play? Looking forward to Busters response on this one
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CDIs
Feb 6, 2024 10:11:41 GMT
Post by buster on Feb 6, 2024 10:11:41 GMT
I've seen success with soaking CDIs in a suitable solvent to remove the pot leaving the circuit exposed. Noone's tried this? I don't want to be the first to try it on my Hitachi! (Unless it's proven busted -- heading over to my other thread to get opinions on this) I've followed along on your conversion thread Buster and loved every second. Nerdgasm. In retrospect would you recommend that approach to others? Also I was under the impression the Hall Sensor wasn't necessary with the ignitech if you have a working pulse ie. plug-and-play? your right, ignitech will sell you a unit that is almost plug and play and yes it will come set to work with the original pick up. there is a small amount of wiring involved (a live that switches on with the key with an inline fuse to protect the new CDI) but otherwise its plug and play, at that point your original stator is just charging the battery, the ignition windings become redundant. the reason I used a HALL sensor was to try and get away from obsolete components (I dont think the pick up can be rewound anymore as wire is not available that thin anymore) and they have been known to fail. if I recall correctly Anna had that problem with her bike
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